Some hikes you do once, tick off the list and move on. The Zirbenweg is not one of them. For me, this trail high above Innsbruck is a unique experience every single time. This time I walked it from the Glungezer over to the Patscherkofel, and of course I treated myself to a delicious Tris at the Patscherkofel Schutzhaus along the way. More on that later.

What is the Zirbenweg?

The Zirbenweg (stone pine trail) is a panoramic high-altitude trail on the southern side of the Inn Valley, connecting the Patscherkofel and the Glungezer at around 2,000 metres. What makes it so special: instead of climbing up and down, you walk more or less on one level the whole time, with the mountains on one side and the city far below on the other. The cable cars on both ends do the hard work for you.

Walking through one of Europe's oldest stone pine forests

The trail leads you through a vast field of Zirben, the stone pines that give the path its name. Some of these trees are centuries old, twisted by wind and weather into shapes that look almost sculptural. The scent alone is worth the trip: if you have ever smelled a Zirbenschnaps or slept in a stone pine bed, you know what I mean. Up here, that scent is everywhere.

And then there are the views. The whole way, Innsbruck lies at your feet. You see the city, the Inn winding through the valley and the Nordkette rising up on the opposite side. It is one of the most beautiful perspectives on Innsbruck you can get, and honestly, photos do not do it justice.

My route: from the Glungezer to the Patscherkofel

This time I started on the Glungezer side and walked towards the Patscherkofel. The direction is really up to you, the trail works beautifully both ways. Everything is very, very well signposted, so you do not need to be an experienced mountaineer to find your way. Just follow the signs, enjoy the panorama and take your time.

The reward at the end (or in the middle, depending on your pace and appetite) is a stop at the Patscherkofel Schutzhaus. My order this time: a Tris, the classic Tyrolean trio of dumplings, typically spinach, cheese and bacon, served on sauerkraut. After a few hours in the mountain air, it tastes even better than it already is. And it is already very, very good.

My tip: go during the week

The Zirbenweg is no secret, and on sunny weekends you will share it with plenty of other hikers. My tip: do this hike during the week if you can. There are far fewer people on the mountain, the huts are more relaxed and you get those endless views almost to yourself.

Good to know

• Route: high-altitude trail between Glungezer and Patscherkofel, walkable in both directions

• Character: mostly level, panoramic, through ancient stone pine forest

• Signage: excellent, everything is very well marked

• Food stop: Patscherkofel Schutzhaus, try the Tris

• Best time: on a weekday, when the mountain is quieter

If you live in Innsbruck, the Zirbenweg is simply a must. It combines everything that makes this region special: the mountains, the views, the food and that feeling of being far away from everything while the city is right below you.